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You Don't Need 20% Down!

Jim Eyre • October 21, 2024
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You don't need 20% down! Sure, it's nice, but it's not necessary. In my blog entry of last week, I promised that we'd blow the 5 greatest mortgage myths of all time out of the water. Today we're going to take the first one head-on, the idea of needing a 20% down payment before you can purchase a home. Simply put, it's just not true. It was true - a long time ago - but no more. Here's a short history on mortgages and mortgage insurance, so that everyone understands what it is, and why it exists. 


In the mid-to-late 19th century, most of the U.S. population did not own homes. The "average Joe" just simply couldn't afford to buy one. The banks said you had to put 50% down, finance the balance over a 10 year term, and pay off the entire balance at the end of the 5th year. So if you were able to compile a 50% down payment, but not fortunate enough to pay off the balance in 60 months, you were constantly having to refinance your mortgage every 5 years. This was quite common in those times prior to the existence of mortgage insurance. Mortgage insurance is what makes lenders comfortable with low and/or no down payment mortgage loans, because if a homeowner defaults on their loan, the mortgage insurance company helps to make the lender whole.


Mortgage insurance began in the U.S. in the 1880s, and the first law on it was passed in New York in 1904. Then the U.S. went through World War I. Afterward there were a large number of service people returning to their homes with marketable skills, but they hadn't been in the work force long enough to save up a large down payment or develop credit histories that were acceptable to traditional banks. The mortgage insurance industry grew in response to the 1920s real estate bubble and went virtually bankrupt after the Great Depression. So from 1933-1956 commercial mortgage insurance wasn't available in the U.S. No PMI companies even existed until it was authorized again in 1956, when a law was passed, and Mortgage Guaranty Insurance Corporation (MGIC) was chartered. This was followed by a California law in 1961 which would become the standard for other states' mortgage insurance laws. Eventually the National Association of Insurance Commissioners created a model law.


The Federal Housing Administration (FHA) was conceived in 1934. And within 4 years of that time, homebuyers could purchase a home, using an FHA loan, with only 10% down. Today you can purchase a home with an FHA loan with as little as 3.5% down payment. Doing this you would have what is called the Upfront Mortgage Insurance Premium (UFMIP), which is usually financed into the loan amount, as well as a monthly mortgage insurance premium.


Later the U.S. went through World War II, during which the VA mortgage loan program was begun in 1944. Having undergone several updates of down payment requirements, maximum loan terms, and maximum loan guarantee, today a person can purchase a home with absolutely no down payment. The borrower(s) will pay a VA Funding Fee, which can be financed into the loan amount, unless he/she/they is/are exempted from it, according to their Certificate of Eligibility. And there is absolutely no mortgage insurance at all.


Later, of course, the U.S. went through the Korean and Vietnam conflicts. And again as in the past, a large number of service people returned home with marketable skills, but not enough time in the work force to save large down payments or develop credit histories sufficient for low or no down payment mortgages with conventional lenders.


So PMI companies developed mortgage insurance programs, first to insure mortgage loans for people who made 10% down payments. Due to growing demand and increasing home prices, they later developed programs for people who made 5% down payments. Later still, 3% down, and even 0 down payment conventional loans were made available. So if you want to purchase a home, mortgage insurance truly isn't the "elephant in the room" that it's often made out to be. 


If you can afford to buy a home with a smaller down payment and a higher monthly payment, you can certainly do so. In fact, simple math will prove that if you can do so, you are much wiser to do so as soon as you are able, rather than waiting until you save 20%. And if you'd like to go over that, just contact me directly, and I'll be happy to illustrate it for you.


Be sure and watch for next week's blog. You know that down payment you're saving for? Well, you can get down payment assistance on many mortgage loans across the country!

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Budgeting strategies to get yourself into a home. We've been considering the steps that people go through mentally to get ready to buy a home. And they normally ask themselves a bunch of questions, which as it turns out, are the same questions financial planners and mortgage brokers ask, or at least should be asking their potential clients. These questions are (1) Financially speaking, where are you?, (2) Financially speaking, where do you want to be?, and (3) Again financially speaking, how are you going to get where you want to go? And of course, in the context of this blog, "where you want to go" refers to buying a home. Last week we began to look at some specific strategies that are often suggested to help homebuyers reach their goal. The first was to "Always pay yourself first" by saving 10% of what you earn. The second was to budget a little bit for home maintenance every month, because in some ways, houses are like cars. Parts wear out, and either need to be repaired or replaced, and with a house, those parts can be quite expensive, and you don't want to be caught unaware. This week we're going to look at the next two strategies which can be utilized to help you ready yourself to buy a home. Strategy #3 is to start living as if you already have a mortgage, and here's how it works. Let's say you're already paying $2,000/mo. for rent, and you're concerned as to whether or not you can actually afford a mortgage. First, select a neighborhood where you'd like to live, and actually write down on paper what you need in a home. Then contact your real estate broker, and ask what such a home would actually cost. Once you have a price range in mind, contact your mortgage broker, and find out what a mortgage payment would be on such a home. For the purposes of this scenario, let's say that payment comes to $3,400/mo. for principal, interest, taxes, insurance and mortgage insurance. That's a $1,400 increase, and you might be worried whether or not you can sustain that over a long period of time - perfectly understandable, right? The way to determine whether or not you can sustain it is to go ahead and pay your $2,000 monthly rent, AND save $1,400 each month, in a separate savings account, designated for your closing costs when you buy your home. Do this for 3 months, 6 months, maybe even a year. Take however long you need. At the end of this time, you will know whether or not you can actually do it, and you'll make the appropriate decision. Strategy #4 is to minimize credit card debt. Mismanagement, and in some cases non-management of credit card debt kill more mortgage applications than anything else I see. So it's critical to understand how this can affect you when applying for a mortgage. It's actually a subject unto itself, and it's too long to go into real depth here, but I can at least give you some time-tested methods to manage a situation that's tough for many people. First, list out all your credit card accounts, their balances, their limits, and their interest rates. Sort them by balances owed first, and secondly by interest rate. Second, starting with the balances that are easiest to do this with, pay each of the cards' balances down to 50% of their limits, and NEVER exceed 50% again. Most people do not understand that when they exceed 50% of a credit card's limit, it begins to lower their credit scores. Once you've accomplished this, pay them down to 30% of their limits, and NEVER exceed 30% again. If you do this, you'll begin to see rapid increases in your mortgage credit scores. But hold on - you're not done yet. Next, use each card you have periodically. The reason for this is that banks who issue credit cards are in business to make money. If you don't charge something periodically, they won't make any money, and eventually they will close the credit card account for non-use. And this will lower your credit score for a couple reasons which are too detailed for this blog. Just be sure you use each card you have... You don't have to use each one every month, but use each one every few months, even if it's just for a tank of gas in your car. Last - never close a credit card account! There are two exceptions to this. If your identity has been hacked and you fear that someone may have gotten your credit card information, call the bank who issued you the card, and have them issue you a new card. And if for some reason you suspect that the bank who issued you the card is going to close the account for non-use, either charge something on it immediately, or close the account yourself. It always looks better on a credit report if you've closed an account, than if the creditor closes the account on you. Hopefully the questions we've looked at, and the strategies that I've suggested are things you find helpful as you get ready to buy your home. If you have questions about any of it, please feel free to reach out to me at anytime. Remember, I don't work 9-5, I work start-to-finish, and I will always give you straight talk without any sales talk.
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